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Are Synthetic Fragrances Necessarily Inferior To Natural Fragrances?

Jan 05, 2022

Before Guerlain released the fragrance jicky in 1889, only a floral scent, and often only one, could be smelled on a woman's wrist or a man's neckline. The emergence of jicky means the end of the era of single-note fragrance, which provides people with three fragrances, the top notes are fresh citrus and lavender, intertwined with herbal notes; the middle notes are rich sandalwood; the tail The incense is a blend of amber, musk and civet animal scents. The significance of this fragrance is that, for the first time, both natural scents and synthetics are brought together to create a taste that is a little spicy and a little "weird". Subsequently, a series of innovative synthetic fragrances entered the market, including ionones reminiscent of violets, lactones that smelled like cream and artificial musk.

There are many excellent perfumes made with synthetic fragrances. Chanel No. 5 uses fatty aldehydes that give off a fresh citrus, floral, and overt soapy scent. In 1965, chemists at IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances) created a synthetic musk that smelled like warm fur, a material that was used in Jōvan Musk in 1973 and became popular afterwards; the polycyclic musk compound Kashmir Scent of wood, very gentle, used in Donna Karan's Cashmere Mist.

"Many people think that perfume is made of 3-4 substances such as rose, geranium, sandalwood. Because they are also the main fragrance." The famous perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux said, "but usually a perfume On average, it includes 40-60 kinds of raw materials. And among them, artificial flavors account for 70%, and natural flavors only account for 30%.”

Some of today's most famous fragrance producers, Symrise, Firmenich, IFF, Givaudan and Takasago, used synthetic fragrances in their early years. Each lab recruits a bunch of Ph.D.s and researchers to do research. Sometimes they know exactly what to look for, whether it's a more imposing citrus scent, or a more earthy wood scent. But in more cases, they are just exploring to see what kind of lucky results they can get.

Generally speaking, the creators of these laboratories are generally divided into three categories: one is purely dealing with natural flavors; the second is the initial experiment using natural flavors as raw materials, but then adding synthetic ingredients to increase the smell The concentration of odorants, or control the time that the odor stays in the air; the last category is to use only synthetic methods to make flavors from start to finish.

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